One of the most anticipated moments of Paris Haute Couture Week finally arrived as Pierpaolo Piccioli presented his first Fall 2026 couture collection for Balenciaga.

The collection was undeniably beautiful. Dramatic capes, sweeping gowns, intricate embellishment and vibrant colour palettes showcased Piccioli’s exceptional couture craftsmanship. Yet, rather than introducing a bold new identity for Balenciaga, many of the looks echoed the signature aesthetic he perfected during his time at Valentino.

While there’s nothing wrong with a designer’s handwriting, a debut at one of fashion’s most influential houses is often expected to redefine the brand’s future. Instead, this collection felt like a seamless continuation of Piccioli’s previous work.

Of course, it’s still early days. Building a new creative vision takes time, and there’s no doubt Piccioli has the talent to evolve Balenciaga in his own way.