Let’s talk about Demna. No surname necessary. Once the darling of the fashion underground, Demna Gvasalia rose through the ranks with an approach that felt punk, post-ironic, and totally disruptive. But now? Some say he’s more about performance than product and we’re not entirely disagreeing.

Demna’s journey began at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. After stints at Maison Margiela and Louis Vuitton, he co-founded Vetements in 2014 with his brother Guram. The label became a cult obsession almost overnight because it made streetwear “fashion” and fashion “street.” Think oversized hoodies, DHL logo tees, and intentionally awkward tailoring. Fashion insiders either scoffed or screamed but they all watched.

His appointment to Balenciaga in 2015 signalled a new era. Suddenly, the iconic maison founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga was in the hands of a designer who sent models down the runway in Crocs, duct-taped bags, and caution tape gowns. For some, it was a brilliant commentary on consumerism. For others, it was a case of the emperor’s new clothes literally. He turned normcore into couture, everyday items into $2,000 statements. Avant-garde? Maybe. Exhausting? Absolutely.

Then came the controversy. A 2022 Balenciaga campaign was widely condemned for featuring disturbing imagery involving children. Though the brand quickly distanced itself from the creatives involved, the damage was done. Demna issued an apology, but many felt it lacked sincerity. It seemed like the line between edgy and offensive had finally been crossed and the industry took note.

Demna continues to position himself as a “deep” thinker, giving interviews with abstract reflections and socio-political musings. But often, it feels like he’s trying to pass off laziness as genius. A plastic bag isn’t couture, babe it’s a corner shop essential, and its 10p.

And yet, he’s still here. Still influential. Still sending models down the runway in looks that stir headlines, memes, and mass confusion.

Is Demna redefining fashion or just riding a high-concept hustle? We’ll be watching. Eye-rolls and all.