Pierpaolo Piccioli took Paris by storm as he unveiled a breath-taking and pristine collection of Valentino’s summer ideas at the École des Beaux-Arts. Against a backdrop featuring classical nude sculptures of women, models strutted the runway while FKA Twigs and her dancers performed athletically in the centre, creating a captivating spectacle.

In a pre-show preview, Piccioli expressed his commitment to preserving women’s freedom to express themselves, especially amidst what he sees as political pushback on women’s rights in Italy under Giorgia Meloni’s conservative-right administration. He criticized the government’s warning to girls about their clothing choices and emphasized that feminism is about the freedom of women to be authentic and to say no.

True to his words, Piccioli’s collection showcased a diverse array of styles, moods, and cultures. The highlight of the show was a stunning innovation—a series of dresses crafted using a cut-out embroidery technique, forming a captivating caged effect with linked flower, bird, vine leaves, or pineapples.

“I wanted to use embroidery not as decoration, but as structure that becomes a fabric in itself,” Piccioli explained. Inspired by low-relief architectural mouldings from Italian Renaissance interiors, particularly the iconic Sala Bianca, this collection aimed to expose the skin in a different, modern way while maintaining the elegance associated with Valentino.